Sikkim, Darjeeling, Kalimpong, the Dooars and Bhutan · a planner replies within one working day

Go Sikkim Tours

Toy-train blue and first-flush green · India

Darjeeling

The Darjeeling hills rise from Siliguri in the plains to Darjeeling town at about 2,045 m and Sandakphu at 3,636 m, the highest point in West Bengal. Come for the toy train, the tea estates, sunrise on Kangchenjunga and the Singalila ridge trek. October to December and March to May are the best months.

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Darjeeling, in brief

Main townDarjeeling, about 2,045 m
Nearest airportBagdogra (IXB), 70 km from Darjeeling
Nearest railwayNew Jalpaiguri (NJP), 6 km from Siliguri
LanguagesNepali, Bengali, Hindi, English; also Lepcha, Tibetan and other community languages
PermitsNone for Darjeeling; park entry and a licensed guide for the Sandakphu trek
Days to allow4–7

The Darjeeling hills climb steeply out of the plains of north Bengal. In two or three hours by road you go from Siliguri, at about 120 m, through forest and tea gardens to Kurseong at 1,480 m and Darjeeling at 2,045 m. To the north, across deep valleys, Kangchenjunga fills the sky on clear days; to the west, the Singalila ridge marks the border with Nepal.

This is tea country. More than eighty estates grow Darjeeling tea on these slopes, from Makaibari near Kurseong to Happy Valley just below Darjeeling town. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a 2 ft gauge line opened in 1881 and listed by UNESCO in 1999, still climbs 88 km from NJP to Darjeeling, and its steam joy rides to Ghum are one of the region's great pleasures.

The region suits most travellers. Families come for the toy train, the zoo and the easy walks of Mirik. Couples come for heritage hotels and tea-garden stays. Trekkers walk the Singalila ridge to Sandakphu for a view of Everest and Kangchenjunga together. Budget travellers find shared jeeps, family guesthouses and cheap, good food. Comfort travellers have heritage hotels and tea-estate bungalows to choose from.

Distances are short but roads are slow, steep and often foggy, so allow more time than the kilometres suggest. Plan around the weather: clear skies from October to December, flowers and first-flush tea in spring, cold but bright winters and a wet, cloudy monsoon from June to September. A shared jeep from Siliguri to Darjeeling, for example, takes about three hours for 65 km.

Why go

Reasons to go, plainly

The toy train

Ride the UNESCO-listed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway from Darjeeling to Ghum by steam, past the Batasia Loop.

Tea estates

Walk and taste at Happy Valley, Makaibari and the gardens around Mirik, or sleep on a working estate.

Tiger Hill sunrise

Watch first light on Kangchenjunga, with Everest on the far horizon on the clearest mornings.

The Sandakphu trek

Walk the Singalila ridge to 3,636 m for a view of four of the world's five highest peaks.

Monasteries and temples

Visit Ghum Monastery, founded in 1850, Bokar Monastery in Mirik and the shared Hindu-Buddhist shrine on Observatory Hill.

Quiet hill towns

Slow down in Kurseong and Mirik, warmer and calmer than Darjeeling and close to the plains.

Where we book

Stays in Darjeeling

All stays →
Family guesthouses around Dr Zakir Hussain Road, Darjeeling
Homestay · Darjeeling Family guesthouses around Dr Zakir Hussain Road, Darjeeling

The lanes above Chowrasta and along Dr Zakir Hussain Road hold dozens of small family-run guesthouses with simple rooms, hot water by bucket or geyser and …

Trekkers' lodges and homestays on the Singalila ridge
Lodge · Sandakphu Trekkers' lodges and homestays on the Singalila ridge

On the way to Sandakphu you sleep in simple stone and timber lodges at Tumling, Gairibas, Kalipokhri and Sandakphu itself. Expect shared rooms, thick blankets, basic …

Sinclairs Siliguri
Hotel · Siliguri Sinclairs Siliguri

A long-running mid-range hotel in Siliguri, part of the Kolkata-based Sinclairs chain. We use it when a late train or an early flight forces a night …

Cochrane Place
Heritage hotel · Kurseong Cochrane Place

A small heritage hotel in an old planter's house just below Kurseong on the Pankhabari road, with tea-garden views and well-kept rooms. Good value for a …

Windamere Hotel
Heritage hotel · Darjeeling Windamere Hotel

Darjeeling's best-known heritage hotel, on Observatory Hill a few minutes' walk from Chowrasta. Built as Ada Villa in 1841, it became the Windamere Hotel in 1939 …

Glenburn Tea Estate
Heritage hotel · Darjeeling Glenburn Tea Estate

A working Darjeeling tea estate with a small planter's bungalow guesthouse above the Rungeet river, about 1.5–2 hours' drive from Darjeeling town. It is the splurge …

Daily budget

What a day in Darjeeling costs

Budget

₹1,800–2,800

per person per day: a shared room in a family guesthouse, shared jeeps between towns, local cafés and momo shops, one paid sight such as the zoo or a tea tasting

Value

₹4,000–6,500

per person per day: a good mid-range hotel with views, a reserved car for sightseeing, restaurant meals, the toy train joy ride and entry fees

Comfort

₹9,000–20,000

per person per day: a heritage hotel or tea-estate bungalow with meals, a private car and driver for the whole trip, steam joy ride and guided tea visits

Per person per day, twin sharing, for planning. Budget builder →

Darjeeling by travel style

Getting there

Arriving in Darjeeling

Bagdogra airport (IXB), 14 km from Siliguri, has flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Bengaluru and other cities. New Jalpaiguri (NJP), 6 km from Siliguri, is the main railway station, with trains from Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati. From Siliguri, Darjeeling is about 65 km and 3–3.5 hours by road via Rohini and Kurseong, Kurseong 34 km and 1.5–2 hours, and Mirik 52 km and 2–2.5 hours. Shared jeeps leave from the stands near the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminus on Hill Cart Road and from NJP; reserved cars are available at NJP and Bagdogra prepaid counters. The toy train runs from NJP to Darjeeling in about 7–8 hours.

Permits

Paperwork to know

Indians and foreigners need no permit to visit Darjeeling, Kurseong, Mirik or Tiger Hill. For Sandakphu, everyone pays the Singalila National Park entry fee at Manebhanjan and carries photo ID, and trekkers must hire a licensed guide. The trail crosses into Nepal in places, where ID is checked. Foreigners continuing to Sikkim need an Inner Line Permit, available in Siliguri or at Rangpo. Fees and rules change. Check current status before you travel.

Permit checker →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Darjeeling

How many days do I need for Darjeeling?

Allow four to seven days. Three nights in Darjeeling covers Tiger Hill, the toy train, tea gardens, the zoo and the town. Add a night in Kurseong or Mirik for a quieter stop, and five or six days for the Sandakphu trek. With a week you can combine Darjeeling with Kalimpong or Gangtok, both 2–4 hours away.

What is the best time to visit Darjeeling?

October to December gives the clearest mountain views and dry weather. March to May brings spring flowers and first- and second-flush tea, with warmer days but more haze. January and February are cold and clear. Avoid June to September if you want views; the monsoon brings cloud, heavy rain and road disruptions.

How do I get from NJP or Bagdogra to Darjeeling?

Take a shared jeep from NJP or the Siliguri stands near the Tenzing Norgay Central Bus Terminus for about ₹250–350 a seat, 3–3.5 hours, or a reserved car from the prepaid counters for about ₹2,800–3,800. The toy train from NJP takes 7–8 hours. From Bagdogra, the drive to Darjeeling is about 3 hours.

Is Darjeeling expensive?

It can be done cheaply. Budget travellers spend about ₹1,800–2,800 a day on family guesthouses, shared jeeps and local food. A Value trip with good hotels and a private car costs about ₹4,000–6,500 per person a day. Prices rise by 20–40 percent in October, May and the Christmas week, so travel outside those weeks to save money.

Do I need a permit for Darjeeling?

No. Darjeeling, Kurseong, Mirik and Tiger Hill need no permit for Indians or foreigners. Sandakphu needs a national park entry fee, photo ID and, for trekkers, a licensed guide. Foreigners going on to Sikkim need an Inner Line Permit, arranged in Siliguri or at the Rangpo border. Check current status before you travel.

Is the toy train worth it?

Yes, but choose the right ride. The two-hour joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum and back, ideally by steam, gives you the Batasia Loop, the Ghum museum and the best of the line for ₹1,000–1,800. The full NJP to Darjeeling journey takes 7–8 hours and suits rail lovers with a full day to spare. Book on IRCTC in advance.

Should I stay in Darjeeling, Kurseong or Mirik?

Darjeeling has the most sights, views and food, and suits a first visit of three nights. Kurseong is quieter, warmer and closer to NJP, good for tea gardens and a first or last night. Mirik is calm and family-friendly around its lake. Many travellers combine Darjeeling with one night in either of the smaller towns.

Can I combine Darjeeling with Sikkim?

Yes, easily. Gangtok is about 95–100 km and 4–5 hours from Darjeeling via the Teesta valley, Pelling about 70–80 km and 4–5 hours via Jorethang, and Kalimpong about 50 km and 2.5 hours. Foreigners need a Sikkim Inner Line Permit, which can be issued at the Melli or Rangpo border posts. Allow at least seven days for a combined trip.

Is Darjeeling good for a family holiday?

Yes. The toy train, the zoo with red pandas and snow leopards, pony rides on Chowrasta, tea gardens and Mirik's lake suit children. Choose a hotel with car access, as Darjeeling's lanes are steep. Pack warm clothes even in May. Avoid the monsoon and plan early nights before Tiger Hill dawn starts.

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