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Sillery Gaon

A ridge village above Pedong looking down on the Teesta bends

Sillery Gaon is a small homestay village at about 1,830 m above Pedong, roughly 30 km from Kalimpong. Go for Kanchenjunga views, the walk to Ramitey Dara over the bends of the Teesta, and Lepcha history at Damsang Fort. One or two nights is right.
Sillery Gaon
Photo: Sumit Surai · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Sillery Gaon is a village of a few dozen houses on a forested ridge at about 1,830 m, a short climb above Pedong. It is about 30 km from Kalimpong and close to the border with East Sikkim. On clear days Kanchenjunga and its neighbours fill the skyline to the north-west.

The village became known to travellers only in the last two decades, when families began opening homestays. Cinchona, planted under the British as a source of quinine, still grows on the slopes. From the ridge above the village, at Ramitey Dara, the Teesta can be seen winding through a long series of bends far below.

Around Sillery lies the oldest history in the district. The ruins of Damsang Fort, the seat of the Lepcha king Gaeboo Achyuk, stand on a ridge near Pedong, and Pedong's Sangchen Dorjee monastery dates from the Bhutanese period. The old trade route to Tibet over Jelep La passed just below.

Highlights

What Sillery Gaon does best

Ramitey Dara view

A ridge above the village where you look down on the Teesta curling through the valley in many bends.

Kanchenjunga from the village

Many homestays face the snow peaks across the valleys, best from October to February.

Damsang Fort

Ruins of the late seventeenth-century fort of Gaeboo Achyuk, the last Lepcha king of these hills.

Sangchen Dorjee monastery at Pedong

An old monastery built during Bhutanese rule, with wall paintings and a quiet courtyard.

Old Silk Route link

The road on through Rhenock leads to Zuluk and the old Jelep La trade route in East Sikkim.

Getting there

How to reach Sillery Gaon

Shared jeep

Take a shared jeep from the Kalimpong motor stand to Pedong for about ₹70–120 a seat, about 1–1.5 hours. From Pedong, hire a local jeep for the last steep stretch up to Sillery Gaon for about ₹500–800.

Private car

A reserved car from Kalimpong costs about ₹1,800–2,500 and takes about 1.5 hours. From NJP or Bagdogra expect about ₹4,000–5,000 and 3.5–4 hours. The last few kilometres above Pedong are narrow and rough; large vehicles may not make it.

From Sikkim

Sillery Gaon is a short drive from Rhenock in East Sikkim, so it fits easily into an Old Silk Route trip towards Aritar or Zuluk.

From our planners

Five things to know

  1. Ask your host whether your car can reach the homestay; the last stretch is steep and narrow.
  2. Walk to Ramitey Dara in the morning, before haze settles over the Teesta valley.
  3. Combine with Pedong, Damsang Fort and the Sangchen Dorjee monastery on the way in or out.
  4. Carry cash; there are no ATMs in the village and few in Pedong.
  5. In the monsoon the road above Pedong turns slippery; travel in daylight and check current status before you travel.

The local story

Gaeboo Achyuk and the fort at Damsang

Long before Kalimpong was a town, the hills around Pedong belonged to a Lepcha kingdom with its seat at Damsang. Its best-remembered ruler was Gaeboo Achyuk, also written Gyalpo Ajok, who lived in the late seventeenth century. Lepchas remember him as a king who united their people across a wide stretch of the hills.

Read the whole story →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Sillery Gaon

How do I reach Sillery Gaon from Kalimpong?

Drive about 30 km via Algarah and Pedong, around 1.5 hours. A reserved car costs about ₹1,800–2,500, indicative. On a budget, take a shared jeep to Pedong for about ₹70–120 and a local jeep up the last steep stretch for ₹500–800. Ask your homestay to arrange the Pedong pickup.

What is Ramitey Dara?

Ramitey Dara is a viewpoint on the ridge above Sillery Gaon. From the top you look far down on the Teesta as it winds through the valley in a long series of bends; locals count anywhere from 11 to 14. On clear days the snow peaks of Sikkim stand behind. It is about 3 km from the village.

How many nights should I spend in Sillery Gaon?

One night is enough for the mountain view, Ramitey Dara and a stop in Pedong. Two nights let you add Damsang Fort, nearby Icche Gaon and a slow day in the village. Many travellers add Sillery Gaon to a Kalimpong stay or use it as the first stop on an Old Silk Route trip.

Why is it called Sillery Gaon?

Gaon means village in Nepali. The first part is usually said to come from sillery, a plant that grows in abundance on these slopes, though there are other local stories about the name. Some travel writers have also nicknamed it new Darjeeling, but it is a small farming village with homestays, far quieter than any town.

Can I see Kanchenjunga from Sillery Gaon?

Yes, on clear days. Many homestays face the mountains, and the view is wider from Ramitey Dara. October to February gives the best chance, especially early in the morning. In spring haze can hide the peaks after mid-morning, and in the monsoon they are rarely visible.

Is the road to Sillery Gaon good?

The road from Kalimpong to Pedong is reasonable. The last few kilometres from Pedong up to the village are narrow, steep and rough in places, and slippery after rain. Small cars and local jeeps manage; large vehicles may not. Check with your host before travelling, especially in the monsoon.

What else is there to see near Sillery Gaon?

Pedong has the old Sangchen Dorjee monastery and a busy little bazaar. Damsang Fort, the ruined seat of the Lepcha king Gaeboo Achyuk, is nearby. Icche Gaon, another homestay village, is a short drive away. Rhenock and Aritar in East Sikkim are about an hour away by road.

Do I need a permit for Sillery Gaon?

No. Sillery Gaon is in Kalimpong district, West Bengal, and needs no permit for Indians or foreigners. If you continue into East Sikkim via Rhenock towards Aritar or Zuluk, foreigners need a Sikkim permit and Zuluk needs a protected area permit. Check current status before you travel.

Is Sillery Gaon good in winter?

Yes, winter is one of the best times, with clear skies and good mountain views from November to February. Nights drop to a few degrees above freezing, and houses are not heated, so bring thermals and a warm hat. Lepchas gather at nearby Damsang Fort on 20 December each year.

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