Zuluk
Hairpin bends and homestays on the old Silk Route
Zuluk sits on a steep slope at about 3,000 m in the Pakyong district of Sikkim, formerly part of East Sikkim. It began as a halt on the mule track from Kalimpong over Jelep La to Lhasa, and today it is a cluster of homestays, small shops and an army camp. Above it, the road climbs in tight loops that look, from Thambi viewpoint, like a thread laid on the hillside.
The village is the overnight stop on what travel agents call the Silk Route, a circuit through Rongli, Zuluk, Nathang, Kupup and Tsomgo. The road was built by the army and is used by military trucks every day. Mornings bring clear views of the Kangchenjunga range to the northwest; afternoons often bring cloud.
Facilities are basic. There are no hotels, only homestays, and power, water and phone signal can be patchy. That is part of the appeal for many travellers. Spend two nights so you can see sunrise from Thambi on one morning and explore Nathang valley at leisure.
Highlights
What Zuluk does best
Dozens of hairpin bends climbing the slope above Zuluk, best seen from Thambi viewpoint.
At about 3,400 m, with Kangchenjunga turning gold across the ranges.
A high, open valley at about 4,000 m with grazing yaks, a small village and a British-era war cemetery.
A small lake near Kupup said to be shaped like an elephant, on the high road towards Tsomgo.
From December to February the village and road are often under snow, a draw for snow-seekers.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Zuluk
Shared jeeps run from Siliguri and Gangtok to Rongli, but not on to Zuluk. From Rongli, your homestay can send a local car for the 30 km climb, for about ₹2,000–3,000.
Most visitors hire a car with driver from NJP, Siliguri or Gangtok for the whole circuit, at about ₹4,500–6,500 a day. The usual route is up via Rongli and out over Nathang, Kupup and Tsomgo to Gangtok.
Fly to Bagdogra and drive via Rangpo and Rongli, about 6–7 hours. Pakyong airport is closer but flights have been irregular. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Stay in one of the village homestays, which charge about ₹1,200–2,000 per person a night including dinner and breakfast. Rooms are simple, with thick quilts and sometimes electric heaters. There are no hotels in Zuluk. Some travellers stay at Gnathang (Nathang) instead, which is higher and colder, or at Padamchen or Lingtam lower down.
Zuluk has no hotels in the usual sense, only family homestays in the small village and army settlement. Rooms are basic but warm, and the price …
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Five things to know
- Send photo ID and photos to your homestay or agent a few days ahead so the permit is ready at Rongli.
- Sleep a night at a lower place such as Aritar on the way up, especially if you continue to Nathang at about 4,000 m.
- Carry cash; there are no ATMs in Zuluk and digital payments depend on patchy signal.
- Hire a local driver who knows the road; do not self-drive in snow.
- Do not photograph army camps or vehicles.
The local story
The war on the trade road in 1888
In 1886 Tibetan troops built a fort at Lingtu, on the trade road a little below Jelep La and above the place where Zuluk now stands. The British, who regarded Sikkim as under their influence, saw the fort as an intrusion and demanded its withdrawal. When talks failed, an expedition was sent from Darjeeling in 1888.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Zuluk
Can foreigners visit Zuluk?
No. The Silk Route through Zuluk, Nathang and Kupup is a restricted area close to the border, and Protected Area Permits for it are issued only to Indian nationals. Foreigners can visit Aritar, which is lower down in the same district, and Tsomgo Lake with a separate permit. Check current status before you travel.
How do I get a permit for Zuluk?
Your homestay host or a registered travel agent applies for the Protected Area Permit, usually at Rongli, using scans of a government photo ID and passport photos. Send these a few days ahead. The permit is checked at Rongli and at army checkposts on the way. Rules and fees are indicative. Check current status before you travel.
What is the best time to visit Zuluk?
April to May and October to November give the clearest views and safest roads. December to February brings snow, which makes the area beautiful but can close the road above Zuluk. June to September is wet, with cloud and landslides. For sunrise over Kangchenjunga, October and November are hard to beat.
How many nights should I spend in Zuluk?
Two nights is ideal. The first evening you arrive tired from the drive; the next morning you go to Thambi viewpoint for sunrise, then spend the day around Nathang and Kupup or rest. One night is possible but rushed, and leaves no margin if weather hides the view on your only morning.
Is Zuluk too high for altitude sickness?
At about 3,000 m, Zuluk itself rarely causes more than mild symptoms in healthy adults, but the road above climbs to about 4,000 m at Nathang and Kupup. Sleep a night lower down first, such as at Aritar, drink water, avoid alcohol and descend if headaches or nausea get worse.
Is there mobile signal and electricity in Zuluk?
Some networks, mainly BSNL and Jio, work in parts of Zuluk, but signal is weak and drops often. Electricity is available but cuts are common, especially in bad weather. Carry a power bank, download offline maps and tell people at home you may be out of contact for a day or two.
What is the Silk Route in Sikkim?
It is the travel-trade name for the old mule road that ran from Kalimpong through Rhenock, Rongli, Zuluk and Gnathang to Jelep La and on to Lhasa. It was one branch of the wider network of Tibetan trade routes. Today the circuit is driven as a two to four night trip from Siliguri or Gangtok.
Can I go from Zuluk to Gangtok over Nathang and Tsomgo?
Yes, if your permit covers it and the road is open. The high road climbs from Zuluk past Thambi viewpoint, Nathang, Kupup and Old Baba Mandir to join the Nathu La road near Tsomgo, then descends to Gangtok in 5–6 hours. It can close after snow, so have a backup plan via Rongli.
How much does a Zuluk trip cost?
A typical two-night Silk Route trip from Siliguri costs about ₹6,000–9,000 per person for two people sharing a car, including homestays with meals and the permit. Costs fall when four or five people share the vehicle. Prices are indicative and rise in snow season and peak holidays.
Packages
Routes that stop in Zuluk
Nearby
Pair it with
A boot-shaped lake and farm homestays below the Silk Route
A glacial lake at 3,753 m on the road to Nathu La
The border pass at 4,310 m on the old road to Lhasa
Sikkim's capital on a ridge above the Ranikhola valley
Shape your own trip Tell us your dates and budget. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the valley to your month, your budget and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an itemised price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin