Pelling
Kangchenjunga at breakfast, and the old capitals of Sikkim below
Pelling sits on a ridge above Gyalshing (Geyzing), the headquarters of Gyalshing district, the old West Sikkim. It is split into Upper, Middle and Lower Pelling along one road, and almost every hotel in Upper Pelling faces north-west towards Kangchenjunga, 8,586 m, and its neighbours Kabru, Pandim and Kokthang. On a clear morning the range fills the skyline.
The town itself is young: most of it was built for visitors in the last thirty years. What lies around it is old. Pemayangtse Monastery, begun in the seventeenth century and enlarged in 1705, stands 2 km away, and below it the ruins of Rabdentse mark the capital of the Namgyal kings from 1670 until 1814, when Gorkha invasions had left it in ruins. Sangachoeling, one of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim, sits on the ridge above town.
Most people spend a day on the local sightseeing loop and a second day driving to Khecheopalri Lake and the waterfalls on the Yuksom road. Pelling also works as a base for Yuksom and Rinchenpong. It is busy in October and late December and quiet, cheap and misty in the monsoon.
Highlights
What Pelling does best
From the helipad ground in Upper Pelling the first light turns the range pink and then gold, usually between 5 and 6 am in spring and autumn.
A Nyingma monastery begun in the seventeenth century and enlarged in 1705, known for the seven-tiered wooden model of Guru Rinpoche's heavenly palace on its top floor.
The stone walls and chortens of Sikkim's second capital, reached by a 20-minute forest walk from the road below Pemayangtse.
A sacred lake about 30 km away, ringed by forest and kept clear of leaves by birds, as pilgrims tell it.
One of Sikkim's oldest monasteries, a steep 40-minute walk up the ridge above Upper Pelling.
A large statue of Chenrezig (Avalokiteshvara) with a glass-floored walkway, opened in 2018 near Sangachoeling.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Pelling
Shared jeeps leave Siliguri (SNT terminus and the jeep stands near Siliguri Junction) for Gyalshing and Pelling in the morning, about ₹400–500 a seat and 5–6 hours. From Gyalshing, local jeeps cover the last 10 km to Pelling. From Gangtok, morning jeeps run to Gyalshing and Pelling.
A reserved car from NJP or Bagdogra takes 5–6 hours via Melli, Jorethang and Legship and costs about ₹5,000–6,500 for a small car. From Gangtok the drive via Ravangla takes about 5 hours and costs about ₹5,000–6,000.
Bagdogra (IXB) is the practical airport, about 145 km and 5.5–6 hours away. Pakyong airport near Gangtok has had irregular flights; check current status before you travel.
New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the nearest major railway station, about 140 km away. Melli and Rangpo have no passenger trains yet.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Stay in Upper Pelling for the views, restaurants and walk to the helipad viewpoint. Small family guesthouses cost ₹1,200–2,500 a room, mid-range hotels ₹3,000–6,000 and the better resorts ₹7,000–15,000. For quiet, look at the hotels near Pemayangtse, about 2 km below. Lower and Middle Pelling are cheaper but most rooms there lack a direct view.
A heritage hotel on the ridge just below Pemayangtse Monastery, a short drive from Upper Pelling. It is the quietest Comfort choice in West Sikkim, with …
A long-running resort in Upper Pelling with terraced cottages facing the Kangchenjunga range. It is our usual Value pick when families want space and a view …
Small family-run guesthouses and lodges line the lanes of Upper Pelling, many with rooftop views of Kangchenjunga. They are the cheapest way to stay in Pelling …
Shape your own trip Tell us your dates and budget. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the valley to your month, your budget and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an itemised price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginFrom our planners
Five things to know
- Set an alarm for 5 am on your first clear morning; cloud often builds by 9 am and the range may not show again for days.
- Ask for a room on the top floor facing north-west, and look at it before you pay; 'mountain view' can mean a corner of a window.
- Book the Khecheopalri and waterfalls loop as a reserved car for the day rather than paying point to point.
- Carry cash; Pelling has a few ATMs, but they run dry at weekends and in peak weeks.
- Dress modestly at Pemayangtse and walk clockwise around chortens and prayer wheels.
The local story
How Rabdentse rose and fell
Sikkim's first king, Phuntsog Namgyal, was crowned at Yuksom in 1642. In 1670 his son, Tensung Namgyal, moved the capital to a ridge just below where Pelling now stands, and called it Rabdentse. For well over a century this was the seat of the Namgyal kings.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Pelling
How many days do I need in Pelling
Two nights is enough for most people: one day for the local loop of Pemayangtse, Rabdentse, Sangachoeling and the skywalk, and one for Khecheopalri Lake and the waterfalls on the Yuksom road. Add a third night if you want to visit Yuksom and Dubdi Monastery, or simply to give yourself a second chance at a clear sunrise over Kangchenjunga.
When can you see Kangchenjunga from Pelling
The clearest months are October to mid-December, then February to April, usually in the first hours after sunrise. January can be very clear but cold. From June to September monsoon cloud hides the range most days, though breaks do happen. Even in good months, plan two mornings in Pelling, because a single cloudy day is common.
How do I get from Siliguri to Pelling
The cheapest way is a shared jeep from Siliguri to Gyalshing or Pelling, about ₹400–500 a seat and 5–6 hours; jeeps leave in the morning. A reserved small car from NJP or Bagdogra costs about ₹5,000–6,500 and takes 5–6 hours via Melli, Jorethang and Legship. Fares are indicative and rise in peak season.
Do Indians need a permit for Pelling
No. Indian citizens need no permit for Pelling, Yuksom, Ravangla, Namchi or Rinchenpong. Carry a photo ID, because hotels must record it. Foreign nationals need the Sikkim Inner Line Permit, issued at Rangpo, Melli and other entry points or online, and must show it at hotels. Permit rules can change. Check current status before you travel.
Does it snow in Pelling
Snow in Pelling town is uncommon. It may get a light fall on a few days in January or February in a cold year, but it rarely lies for long. If snow is your main aim, North Sikkim or the Tsomgo Lake road near Gangtok are surer bets. Pelling's winter draw is clear air and sharp views of the snow peaks.
Is Pelling good for a honeymoon
Yes, if you want quiet and views rather than shopping and nightlife. Book a room facing Kangchenjunga, keep the days light, and pair it with Gangtok or Darjeeling for variety. October, November, March and April have the best weather. Avoid the Puja holidays and New Year week if you want a calmer town and fair room rates.
What is the Pelling skywalk
It is a glass-floored walkway leading to a large statue of Chenrezig, the bodhisattva of compassion, on the ridge above Upper Pelling near Sangachoeling Monastery. It opened in 2018. Entry costs about ₹50–100. It can be closed in bad weather or for maintenance, so check current status before you travel and carry the ticket cash.
Are there ATMs and mobile signal in Pelling
Pelling has a few ATMs, and Gyalshing, 10 km away, has more banks. They do run out of cash in busy weeks, so arrive with enough for hotels and cars. Jio, Airtel and BSNL generally work in Pelling, but signal weakens near Khecheopalri Lake and along the Yuksom road. UPI is widely accepted in hotels and larger restaurants.
Can I visit Pelling in the monsoon
You can, from June to September, but expect rain most days, landslides on the roads from Siliguri and Gangtok, and little chance of mountain views. In return, hotels cut prices and the waterfalls are at their fullest. Allow a spare day for road closures and travel with a flexible plan. Check current status before you travel.
Packages
Routes that stop in Pelling
Nearby
Pair it with
Where Sikkim crowned its first king and the Goecha La trail begins
A ridge-top village with a rare Buddha and a lake that was poisoned
A tall Buddha above the clouds, and Sikkim's only tea estate below
Tea, toy trains and Kangchenjunga at the end of the ridge
Shape your own trip Tell us your dates and budget. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the valley to your month, your budget and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an itemised price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin