Morning at Pemayangtse Monastery
Lhatsun Chenpo, one of the three lamas who crowned the first king, founded a small shrine here in the seventeenth century; it was enlarged into the present monastery in 1705 under the third Chogyal. It traditionally admits only monks of 'pure' lineage, and its head lama once anointed the Chogyals. Its three-storey main hall is painted inside with wall paintings of deities and teachers, and the ground floor houses statues of Guru Padmasambhava and his forms.
The real treasure is on the top floor: a seven-tiered wooden model of Zangdok Palri, the copper-coloured heavenly palace of Guru Rinpoche, carved by a single lama over several years. Photography is usually not allowed inside, so take your time and look closely.
Pair the visit with the forest walk down to Rabdentse, which starts close by.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Can I take photos inside Pemayangtse
Photography is usually not allowed inside the prayer halls, and the rule is enforced on the top floor where the Zangdok Palri model stands. Photos of the courtyard, the exterior and the mountain view are fine. Ask a monk if you are unsure, put your phone away during prayers, and never use flash near the wall paintings.
How do I get to Pemayangtse from Pelling
It is about 2 km from Upper Pelling. You can walk down the road in 30–40 minutes and take a taxi back up, or include it in a half-day local sightseeing car for about ₹2,000–2,800. Many people walk on from the monastery down the forest path to Rabdentse ruins, then pick up the car on the main road.
What should I wear at Pemayangtse
Wear clothes that cover shoulders and knees, remove your hat and shoes where asked, and walk clockwise around the main hall and any chortens. It is cold inside the halls before 10 am for much of the year, so carry a jacket. Keep voices low and do not sit with your feet pointing towards the altar.
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