Dzongu

A Lepcha reserve of cardamom, rivers and village homestays

Dzongu is a protected Lepcha reserve on the west bank of the Teesta below Mangan, about 70–90 km and 3.5–4.5 hours from Gangtok. It is low enough to avoid altitude problems and best for homestays, village walks and Lepcha food. Stay two nights; a separate permit is needed.

Photo: Pema Yangden Lepcha · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Dzongu is a block of steep, forested hills between the Teesta and the Kangchenjunga National Park, reserved for the Lepcha community since the days of the Chogyal kings. Outsiders cannot buy land here, and visitors need a permit. Villages such as Lingthem, Passingdang, Hee Gyathang, Tingvong and Sakyong sit on terraces between about 700 and 2,000 m, among big cardamom groves, orange trees and paddy.

For travellers it is the opposite of a Lachung package. There is no line of jeeps and no snow point. You stay with Lepcha families, eat what they cook, walk between villages and listen to stories about the mountains and spirits that shape Lepcha belief.

Dzongu has a recent history of activism. In 2007 and 2008 Lepcha groups, led by the Affected Citizens of Teesta, held long hunger strikes against hydropower projects in the reserve, and several projects were later dropped. The October 2023 flood also damaged crossings over the Teesta near Mangan. Check current status before you travel.

Highlights

What Dzongu does best

Lepcha homestaysFamily homes with simple rooms, home-cooked food and hosts who explain Lepcha life and belief.
Village and cardamom walksEasy trails between villages through big cardamom groves, bamboo, orange orchards and suspension bridges.
Low altitudeMost stays are at 700–2,000 m, so Dzongu is a gentle counterweight to the high valleys of North Sikkim.
Tholung MonasteryA remote monastery in Upper Dzongu that keeps old religious objects of Sikkim, reached by a longer walk.
Birds and forestMixed forest along the Teesta's side valleys is good for birds from October to April.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

village · 1 evening An evening with a Lepcha homestay family Dzongu, North Sikkim

nature · 3–5 hours Cardamom groves and village trail walk Dzongu, North Sikkim

spiritual · 1–2 days The walk to Tholung Monastery in Upper Dzongu Dzongu, North Sikkim

wildlife · Half day Birdwatching in Dzongu's side valleys Dzongu, North Sikkim

Getting there

How to reach Dzongu

Shared jeep

Shared jeeps leave Gangtok's north-bound taxi stand for Mangan through the morning, about ₹200–300 a seat and 3 hours. From Mangan your homestay can send a car or you can take a local shared jeep into Dzongu.

Reserved car

A reserved car from Gangtok direct to a Dzongu homestay costs about ₹4,500–6,500 one way. Your host usually arranges the permit papers ahead, using copies of your ID.

Air

Fly to Bagdogra, then drive about 6–7 hours via Gangtok or the Singtam road to Mangan. Most people break the journey in Gangtok.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Stays in Dzongu are almost all Lepcha family homestays, usually ₹1,500–2,500 per person per night with all meals. Rooms are simple and clean, with shared or attached bathrooms and hot water by bucket or geyser. There are no hotels inside the reserve; Mangan has basic lodges if you arrive late.

Homestay · Dzongu Lepcha homestays in Dzongu

Family homestays in Lepcha villages such as Lingthem, Passingdang and Hee Gyathang. The main way to stay in the reserve, and one of the most rewarding …

From our planners

Five things to know

Book your homestay first and send ID copies early so the host can arrange the permit.
Carry cash; there are ATMs in Mangan but none in the villages.
Keep away from river banks; the Teesta and its side streams rise fast and are dangerous.
Ask before photographing people, shrines and homes.
Wear leech socks or carry salt from June to September.

The local story

Born from the snows of Kangchenjunga

The Lepcha, who call themselves Rongkup or Mutanchi Rongkup, are regarded as the oldest known inhabitants of Sikkim. Their homeland, which they call Mayel Lyang, takes in Sikkim and nearby hills, and Dzongu is often described as its heart.

Read the whole story →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Dzongu

Do I need a permit for Dzongu?

Yes. Dzongu is a protected Lepcha reserve and visitors who are not residents need a permit, normally arranged through your homestay or a registered operator and issued by the district administration. Indians send ID copies in advance; foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit as well as the Sikkim Inner Line Permit. Check current status before you travel.

How do I get to Dzongu from Gangtok?

Drive north 67 km to Mangan, about 3 hours, then cross the Teesta into Dzongu. Shared jeeps run from Gangtok to Mangan for about ₹200–300. A reserved car to the homestay costs ₹4,500–6,500. The 2023 flood damaged crossings near Mangan, so ask your host which route is open.

Is Dzongu good for families?

Yes, if your family is happy with simple rooms and home food. The altitude is low, walks are short and flexible, and children enjoy farm life and animals. Keep them away from rivers and steep edges. There are few shops and no entertainment beyond the village, which many families find a relief.

What is the best time to visit Dzongu?

October to April, with dry, clear days and good walking. February to April brings flowers and October to November clear views. December and January are cool but pleasant at this height. June to September is very wet, with leeches and landslides.

What food will I eat in Dzongu?

Home-cooked Lepcha and Sikkimese meals: rice, dal, local greens, wild ferns, nettle soup, pork or chicken, and seasonal vegetables from the garden. Many hosts offer chi, a millet beer, which you may decline. Tell your host about any diet needs in advance.

How many days do I need in Dzongu?

Two nights is the minimum to settle in and walk between villages. Three or four nights lets you reach Upper Dzongu or Tholung Monastery. Many travellers add Dzongu before or after a Lachung or Lachen trip to balance the long high drives.

Can foreigners visit Dzongu?

Yes, with the right paperwork. Foreign nationals need the Sikkim Inner Line Permit and a Protected Area Permit, normally arranged through a registered agent in a group of two or more, along with the local Dzongu entry permission. Ask your homestay and agent to check together. Check current status before you travel.

Is there mobile signal in Dzongu?

In most villages, BSNL and Jio work patchily, with weaker coverage in side valleys. Some homestays have Wi-Fi that depends on the power supply. Expect a slower connection than in Gangtok and plan to be offline sometimes. Tell family before you leave Gangtok.

Are there treks in Dzongu?

Yes, mostly day walks between villages, to waterfalls and through cardamom groves. Longer routes lead toward Tholung Monastery in Upper Dzongu and the edge of Kangchenjunga National Park, which need extra permits and a local guide. Your homestay can arrange a guide.