Losar at Ghoom and the Darjeeling monasteries
February or early March (Tibetan New Year, first day of the first Tibetan month)
The date follows the Tibetan lunar calendar, so it moves each year, usually falling in February and sometimes in early March. The days before are for cleaning houses and settling debts, and on the eve families eat guthuk, a noodle soup with dough balls hiding small objects that tell your fortune for the year in jest.
In Darjeeling the most visible signs are at the monasteries: Yiga Choeling at Ghoom, Dali monastery near Ghoom and the smaller gompas in town. New prayer flags go up on the ridges, butter lamps burn through the day and monks perform prayers. Some monasteries stage cham, masked dances, around the new year, though dates vary by monastery and lineage.
For visitors Losar is a chance to see the hills in their clear winter light, with cold, bright days and few tourists. Shops in Tibetan neighbourhoods may close for a few days, so stock up beforehand.
How to do it well
- Ask your hotel or the monastery office for that year's prayer and dance schedule; dates shift with the lunar calendar
- Dress modestly, walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels, and ask before photographing monks
- Carry warm layers: February mornings in Ghoom are close to freezing
- Expect some Tibetan-run shops and restaurants to close for two or three days
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Losar celebrated in Darjeeling?
Losar starts on the first day of the first month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, which usually falls in February and sometimes in early March. The exact date changes every year. Gyalpo Losar, the version most Tibetan and Sherpa families keep, is the main one in Darjeeling. Check the calendar for your year before you travel and plan two or three days around it.
Can tourists attend Losar prayers at Ghoom Monastery?
Yes, visitors are generally welcome to watch prayers at Yiga Choeling in Ghoom and other monasteries, as long as they are respectful. Stand at the side, keep voices low, do not use flash and ask before photographing monks or rituals. A small offering at the altar is welcome but never required. Rules may vary on major prayer days.
Are there masked dances at Losar in Darjeeling?
Some monasteries in and around Darjeeling perform cham, masked dances, near the new year, but schedules vary by monastery and year, and some hold their main dances at other times. Ask locally or phone the monastery office a week ahead. Do not plan a trip around a dance date without confirming it. Check current status before you travel.
What food is eaten at Losar?
On the eve, families eat guthuk, a nine-ingredient noodle soup with dough balls that hide items such as chilli, salt or wool, each with a joking meaning. Over the new year, homes serve khapse, fried twisted biscuits, along with butter tea, momos and meat dishes. Tibetan restaurants in Darjeeling sometimes serve khapse in the weeks around Losar.