Dashain and Tihar in the Darjeeling hills
Late September to mid-November (Dashain, then Tihar about three weeks later)
Dashain is a fifteen-day festival that ends on Vijaya Dashami, the same day Bengal celebrates the close of Durga Puja. Families gather, and elders place red tika and jamara, young barley shoots, on the foreheads of younger relatives with a blessing. Children play on tall bamboo swings called ping put up in villages. Offices and schools close, and many people travel home.
Tihar follows about three weeks later and lasts five days. Crows, dogs and cows are honoured on successive days with garlands and food, houses are lit with lamps for Laxmi Puja, and groups of young people go door to door singing bhailo and deusi songs in return for gifts. On Bhai Tika, sisters bless their brothers with a seven-coloured tika.
For travellers this is peak season in Darjeeling, with clear October skies and full hotels. It is a good time to see family life, but transport is crowded on the days before and after Dashami.
How to do it well
- Book hotels and the toy train joy ride early; October is the busiest month in Darjeeling
- Shared jeeps fill fast before and after Dashami as families travel home, so start early
- If you are invited to receive tika, accept it with both hands and a small bow
- Darjeeling streets are lit with lamps on the night of Laxmi Puja during Tihar
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When are Dashain and Tihar in Darjeeling?
Both follow the lunar calendar. Dashain usually falls between late September and mid-October, with Vijaya Dashami as its main tika day. Tihar comes about three weeks later, in late October or November, overlapping with Diwali. Check the dates for your year, because the hills are busiest around these days and transport and hotels fill early.
Is Dashain a good time to visit Darjeeling?
The weather is excellent, with clear skies after the monsoon and good mountain views. The downside is crowds: Bengali families travel for Puja holidays at the same time, so hotels and toy train seats sell out and prices rise by 20–40 percent. Book six to eight weeks ahead, or come in early November once the holiday rush ends.
What are deusi and bhailo?
They are Tihar songs sung door to door. Girls and women traditionally sing bhailo, and boys and men sing deusi, though mixed groups are common today. Households give money, food or sweets in return, and the singers offer blessings for the year. In Darjeeling you may hear groups in the evenings around Laxmi Puja, often with a madal drum.
Will shops and transport close during Dashain?
Government offices, banks and many shops close for several days around Vijaya Dashami, and some drivers take leave. Hotels, restaurants and tourist services keep working, but shared jeeps can be scarce on the main tika day. Withdraw cash before the holiday, book your car in advance and confirm timings. Check current status before you travel.