Sandakphu trek on the Singalila ridge: route, rules and costs

There is no special trekking permit for Sandakphu, but there are rules, and they change from time to time. Check current status before you travel. The key points at the time of writing are as follows.

The guide rule is the one that surprises people. Independent trekking without a guide is not allowed in the park. Guides are licensed by the forest department and the Manebhanjan guide association, and they rotate through a queue at the office. You can also book a guide in advance through a registered Darjeeling trekking operator, who will arrange the same licensed guides. A guide can lead a small group, so trekkers often team up at Manebhanjan to share the cost.

• Every trekker must be accompanied by a licensed guide, hired at Manebhanjan or through a registered operator.
• Everyone pays the Singalila National Park entry fee at the Manebhanjan check post, with extra fees for cameras. Foreigners pay a higher fee than Indians.
• Carry original photo ID throughout: a passport, voter ID or Aadhaar card for Indians, and a passport with a valid Indian visa for foreigners.
• Parts of the route, including Tumling and Jaubari, are in Nepal. Border posts may check ID, and you should not stray off the main trail.
• The park traditionally closes to trekkers from mid-June to mid-September for the monsoon. Vehicles may still use the ridge track in some periods.
• Littering is prohibited. Carry back all plastic and packaging, and use lodge toilets.

The table shows the classic route with the Srikhola descent, which is what most first-time trekkers walk. Distances are approximate, because the path switches between old trails and the jeep track and guides choose shortcuts depending on conditions. Walking times are for a steady pace with breaks.

Day one is the hardest climb, from Manebhanjan past Chitrey monastery to Tumling. Day two is longer but gentler, through Jaubari and down to Gairibas before a long climb through bamboo and rhododendron to the small lake at Kalipokhri. Day three is short and steep, reaching Sandakphu before the clouds rise. Day four starts with sunrise on the summit and drops steeply through Gurdum to the river at Srikhola, and on day five a short walk takes you to Rimbik for a jeep back to Darjeeling.

October to mid-December is the best time for views. The monsoon has washed the air clean, mornings are usually clear and the weather is stable, though nights at Sandakphu fall below freezing from November. October is the busiest month, so lodges fill and guides are in demand.

March to May is the flower season. Rhododendrons bloom red, pink and white along the ridge, magnolias flower lower down and nights are milder. The trade-off is haze and afternoon cloud, which often hide the mountains by late morning, and occasional thunderstorms. Start each day early to make the most of the clear hours.

January and February are for experienced winter walkers. Snow can lie deep above Kalipokhri, the jeep track may be blocked and night temperatures drop to -10°C or lower. Views can be superb on clear days. From mid-June to mid-September the park is normally closed to trekkers, and in any case the trail is wet, leech-infested and clouded. Check current status before you travel.

Sandakphu is one of the cheapest Himalayan treks to organise yourself with a local guide. The table gives indicative 2025–26 costs. Budget trekkers sharing a guide and staying in dormitory beds can manage on about ₹2,500–3,500 per person a day on the ridge. Packages from Darjeeling operators, including transport, guide, lodges and meals, usually cost ₹12,000–25,000 per person for five to seven days, depending on group size and comfort.

The ridge is cold, windy and remote, and lodges supply only basic bedding. Pack for freezing nights in any season, but keep your bag light, because every kilogram is felt on the steep climb from Manebhanjan and the descent to Srikhola. Darjeeling's shops sell and hire most trekking gear if you arrive short of something.

• Sleeping bag rated to about -5°C in spring and autumn, -10°C in winter, plus a liner.
• Down or synthetic insulated jacket, fleece, thermal top and bottom.
• Waterproof jacket and trousers, especially in spring.
• Broken-in trekking boots with good grip, and light shoes or sandals for the lodges.
• Woollen hat, sun cap, gloves, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen.
• Trekking poles for the descent to Srikhola.
• Head torch with spare batteries, and a power bank; electricity is limited.
• Water bottles and purification tablets or a filter.
• Snacks: dry fruit, nuts, chocolate and energy bars.
• Basic first-aid kit, personal medicines, blister plasters and oral rehydration salts.
• Cash for the whole trip in small notes; there are no ATMs on the ridge.
• Original photo ID and a photocopy.

Sandakphu is high enough for altitude sickness to be a real, if modest, risk, especially for people who drive up in one day. The three-day walking route helps because it gains height gradually. Common symptoms are headache, nausea, loss of appetite, dizziness and poor sleep. Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol, walk at a steady pace and tell your guide about any symptoms. If they worsen, the only reliable cure is to go down; Land Rovers can be called up the ridge track in an emergency.

The other hazards are weather and cold. Thick cloud can roll in quickly and hide the trail, so stay with your guide. Ice on the stone path in winter makes the descent slippery, and poles help. Mobile signal is patchy; Indian and Nepali networks come and go along the ridge, so tell someone at home your plans.

The trail weaves between India and Nepal, and in places you sleep on the Nepal side. This is normal and accepted for trekkers on the main route, but keep your ID with you, follow any instructions at border posts and do not take shortcuts into unfamiliar valleys. Travellers with heart or lung conditions should talk to a doctor before the trek.

Start in Darjeeling, which is 65–70 km and 3–3.5 hours from NJP or Bagdogra. From Darjeeling, shared jeeps run to Manebhanjan from the Chowk Bazar stand through the morning, taking 1–1.5 hours via Ghum and Sukhiapokhri; a reserved car is faster and lets you leave at dawn. Spend the night before in Darjeeling to rest and check kit.

At the end of the trek, Rimbik has shared and reserved jeeps back to Darjeeling, taking 4–5 hours. If you return along the ridge to Manebhanjan instead, jeeps for Darjeeling and Mirik leave from the main road. Plan at least one buffer day before your train or flight from NJP or Bagdogra, in case weather or road conditions delay you.