DooarsTiger reserve and fort

Buxa

A Bhutanese fort and prison in the clouds above the Dooars

Buxa Tiger Reserve climbs from the plains near Alipurduar to the Bhutan border, and on its slopes stands Buxa Fort, once Bhutanese, then a British prison. Allow two nights for the fort walk, Jayanti and a jungle drive.

Photo: Rajat63ghosh · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Buxa Tiger Reserve covers about 760 km² of Alipurduar district, rising from about 60 m on the plains to 1,750 m on the Bhutan border. It was set up in 1983 as one of India's early tiger reserves, and its forests link with Bhutan's Phibsoo sanctuary and with Manas in Assam. Tigers are now very rarely seen, but elephants, gaur, leopards, clouded leopards and more than 280 bird species live here.

The reserve's gateway is Rajabhatkhawa, about 17 km from Alipurduar, with an entry gate and a nature interpretation centre. From there one road leads through forest to Santalabari, the start of the walk to Buxa Fort at 867 m, and another to Jayanti, a village on a wide river below the hills.

Buxa Fort was a Bhutanese fort guarding one of the passes, or duars, into Bhutan. The British took it in 1865 and later used it as a high-security prison for Indian freedom fighters. After 1959 it sheltered Tibetan monks who had fled to India. Today it is a quiet ruin above forest and villages, with views over the plains.

Highlights

What Buxa does best

Buxa Fort walkA forest path of about 4–5 km from Santalabari climbs to the fort ruins and the village of Buxa.
LepchakhaA Drukpa village about 5 km above the fort, on a ridge with wide views over the Dooars rivers.
Jayanti riverA broad stony river at the foot of the hills, with walks towards the Mahakal caves.
RajabhatkhawaThe reserve's gateway, with a nature interpretation centre and forest drives.
Birds and butterfliesHornbills, forest birds and many butterflies on the lower slopes.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

adventure · 4–5 hours return Walk up to Buxa Fort from Santalabari Buxa, Dooars

village · 3–4 hours from Buxa Fort and back Ridge walk to Lepchakha Buxa, Dooars

nature · 2–5 hours Jayanti riverbed and the path to Mahakal Buxa, Dooars

wildlife · 2–3 hours Forest drive from Rajabhatkhawa Buxa, Dooars

Getting there

How to reach Buxa

Shared bus and jeep

Take a bus or train to Alipurduar, then a local bus or shared jeep to Rajabhatkhawa and on to Santalabari or Jayanti; services are irregular, so start early.

Private car

A reserved car from Siliguri takes 4.5–5 hours to Rajabhatkhawa (about 175 km) and costs ₹5,000–6,500; from Madarihat it is about 1.5 hours.

Train

Alipurduar Junction and New Alipurduar are the nearest major stations, about 20–25 km from Rajabhatkhawa.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Simple family homestays in Santalabari, Buxa village and Lepchakha cost about ₹1,200–2,000 per person with meals, though rules on homestays inside the reserve have tightened and some have closed. Jayanti and Rajabhatkhawa have a few lodges and forest department accommodation. Alipurduar town, 17 km away, has hotels at all prices and makes an easy base.

Homestay · Buxa Santalabari, Buxa and Lepchakha homestays

Simple family homestays in the villages on the walk to Buxa Fort, run mostly by Drukpa and Nepali-speaking families. Basic rooms, home food and forest all …

From our planners

Five things to know

Start the Buxa Fort walk by mid-morning so you are back before dusk, or stay a night in the village.
Take a guide from the counter at Santalabari; it is required and helps the village economy.
Wear proper walking shoes; the path is stony and slippery after rain.
Carry cash; there are no ATMs beyond Alipurduar.
Homestay rules inside the reserve change often. Check current status before you travel.

The local story

From Bhutanese fort to prison in the clouds

Buxa Fort stands at 867 m on a forested spur above the plains. It was first a Bhutanese fort, built to command the Buxa Duar, one of the passes that linked the Bengal plains with Bhutan. Whoever held the duars controlled trade, and taxes, between the hills and the lowlands.

Read the whole story →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Buxa

How long is the Buxa Fort walk?

From Santalabari the path to Buxa Fort is about 4–5 km one way, with roughly 2.5 km of easy forest walking and then a steady climb. Most people take 1.5–2 hours up and a little less down. Continuing to Lepchakha adds about 5 km more. It is a moderate walk for anyone reasonably fit.

Do I need a guide for Buxa Fort?

Yes. A local guide is required for the walk and is arranged at the counter where the path begins in Santalabari. The fee is modest and goes to the village. Guides know the path, the history and the local homestays, and they can arrange porters.

Can I see tigers at Buxa?

It is very unlikely. Buxa was declared a tiger reserve in 1983, but tiger numbers have been very low for many years and sightings are rare. Come for the forest, the walk, birds, butterflies and the history of the fort, and treat any big cat sighting as extraordinary luck.

Can I stay overnight at Buxa Fort?

Yes, in simple homestays in Buxa village beside the fort or in Lepchakha above it, though which homestays may operate inside the reserve has changed after court and forest department orders. Ask at Santalabari or Alipurduar. Check current status before you travel.

What is Lepchakha?

Lepchakha is a small Drukpa village about 5 km beyond Buxa Fort, on a ridge at the edge of the Bhutan hills. From its open ground you look down over the plains and the braided channels of the Dooars rivers. It makes a good overnight stop or a longer day walk from Santalabari.

When is the best time to visit Buxa?

November to April is best, with dry paths and clear views. December and January mornings are foggy and cold at the fort. The reserve closes for tourism from 16 June to 15 September, and monsoon rain makes the path slippery and rivers dangerous.

How do I get to Buxa from Siliguri?

Drive about 175 km to Rajabhatkhawa (4.5–5 hours), then 15 km to Santalabari. Or take a train or bus to Alipurduar and a car from there. Many travellers combine Buxa with Jaldapara and Chilapata, which are 1–2 hours away.

What is Jayanti?

Jayanti is a village on the wide, stony bed of the Jayanti river at the foot of the Bhutan hills, about 13 km from Rajabhatkhawa. It has views of forest-covered hills, walks along the river, and a path towards the Mahakal caves. After rain the river can flood quickly, so take local advice.

Is Buxa suitable for families?

Families with children who enjoy walking will love the fort walk and village stays. Very young children or older relatives may prefer to stay at Rajabhatkhawa or Alipurduar and visit Jayanti and the interpretation centre by car. The path has no railings in places, so keep children close.