BhutanRiver valley

Punakha

The old winter capital where two rivers meet

Punakha is a warm, low valley at about 1,250 m, 72 km and 2.5–3 hours from Thimphu over Dochula. Its dzong at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu is the most beautiful in Bhutan. One night covers the dzong, Chimi Lhakhang and the suspension bridge; two nights suits a slower pace.

Photo: The original uploader was Technopilgrim at Eng… · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Punakha lies in a broad valley about 1,000 m lower than Thimphu, where rice terraces, orange groves and banana plants grow. It was Bhutan's capital until the 1950s, and the central monk body still spends winters here. The valley is warm when Thimphu and Paro are frosty, which makes it a good base from November to March.

Punakha Dzong, built in 1637–38 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, sits on a spit of land where the Pho Chhu, the father river, joins the Mo Chhu, the mother river. It is reached by a covered wooden bridge, and in spring the jacarandas around it flower purple. The first king was crowned here in 1907, and the present king married here in 2011.

Nearby are Chimi Lhakhang, the fertility temple of the Divine Madman, a long suspension bridge over the Pho Chhu, and the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten on a hill above the valley. Punakha is outside the guide-free zone, so visitors need a route permit and a licensed guide.

Highlights

What Punakha does best

Punakha DzongThe palace of great happiness, at the fork of two rivers, with some of Bhutan's finest courtyards and murals.
Chimi LhakhangA small temple on a hillock among rice fields, linked to the saint Drukpa Kunley and visited by couples hoping for children.
The suspension bridgeOne of the longest suspension footbridges in Bhutan, hung with prayer flags over the Pho Chhu.
Dochula on the wayThe pass at about 3,100 m with 108 chortens and, on clear days, a line of high Himalayan peaks.
Khamsum Yulley Namgyal ChortenA temple built by the Queen Mother, consecrated in 1999, reached by a 45-minute walk up through fields.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

culture · 2 hours Punakha Dzong at the river confluence Punakha, Bhutan

village · 1.5 hours Walk through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang Punakha, Bhutan

nature · 1 hour Crossing the Punakha suspension bridge Punakha, Bhutan

nature · 1 hour Dochula pass and the 108 chortens Punakha, Bhutan

Getting there

How to reach Punakha

Private car

Most visitors travel from Thimphu with their guide in a Bhutan-registered car, about ₹3,500–4,500 for the day. The road crosses Dochula at about 3,100 m and drops to the valley through forest.

Shared bus

Public buses run between Thimphu and Punakha (Khuruthang) for about Nu 120–150, taking about 3 hours. Tourists still need a guide to visit Punakha, so this suits only the guide's own logistics.

Air

The nearest airport is Paro, about 125 km and 4–4.5 hours away by road.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Hotels are spread between Khuruthang, the small town 5 km south of the dzong, and the hillsides around Lobesa and along the Mo Chhu. Certified budget hotels cost about ₹2,500–4,000 a room, three-star valley hotels ₹5,000–9,000, and boutique resorts above the river from about ₹12,000. Farmhouse stays are available in villages near Chimi Lhakhang.

From our planners

Five things to know

Get your Punakha route permit in Thimphu before you set off, or make sure your operator has it.
Stop at Dochula early in the morning on the way down; clouds often cover the view by 10 am.
Visit Punakha Dzong in the afternoon, when the light falls on the river side of the building.
Bring sunscreen and lighter clothes; Punakha is about 1,000 m lower and noticeably warmer than Thimphu.
Chimi Lhakhang's walk crosses rice fields and can be muddy after rain; wear proper shoes.

The local story

The Divine Madman and the demoness of Dochula

Drukpa Kunley was a Tibetan Buddhist teacher of the late 15th and early 16th centuries, remembered in Bhutan as the Divine Madman. He taught through outrageous behaviour, bawdy songs and jokes, mocking hypocrisy among the pious and showing that enlightenment did not need solemn ritual.

Read the whole story →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Punakha

Do I need a guide to visit Punakha?

Yes. Punakha is outside Thimphu and Paro, so all tourists, including Indians, need a route permit and a licensed Bhutanese guide. The permit is issued in Thimphu or online, usually arranged by your guide. A guide costs about ₹2,500–3,500 a day for the group. Check current status before you travel.

How far is Punakha from Thimphu?

About 72 km by road, taking 2.5–3 hours. The road climbs to Dochula at about 3,100 m, then descends through forest and farmland to Lobesa and Punakha at about 1,250 m. Allow extra time to stop at Dochula and, if you like, to walk to Chimi Lhakhang on the way.

Is one night in Punakha enough?

One night covers Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang and the suspension bridge if you leave Thimphu early. Two nights allow the walk to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a rafting trip or a lazy afternoon by the river. If you are continuing to Phobjikha, one night each way breaks the drive well.

When is the best time to visit Punakha?

October to April. Punakha is warm and green in winter when the higher valleys are cold, and in March and April the jacarandas flower around the dzong. The Punakha Drubchen and Tshechu usually fall in February or March. Summer is hot and humid, with monsoon rain.

Why is Punakha Dzong important?

It was built in 1637–38 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who unified Bhutan, and served as the seat of government until the capital moved to Thimphu. The first king was crowned here in 1907, and the present king married here in 2011. The central monk body still winters here.

What is Chimi Lhakhang known for?

It is the temple of Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman, built in 1499 by his cousin. Couples come to pray for children and receive a blessing with a wooden phallus. The temple sits on a low hill among rice fields, about a 20–30 minute walk from the road at Sopsokha.

How long is the Punakha suspension bridge?

It is commonly described as one of the longest suspension footbridges in Bhutan, at roughly 160–180 m across the Pho Chhu. It is a short drive and walk upstream from the dzong. The bridge sways a little when people cross, and is hung with prayer flags. It is safe but not ideal for those afraid of heights.

Can I do river rafting in Punakha?

Yes. Licensed operators run easy rafting trips on the Mo Chhu and more lively ones on the Pho Chhu, usually from October to May. A trip of about 1.5–2 hours costs ₹2,500–4,000 per person. It is best arranged through your guide a day ahead. Rafting is suspended during high monsoon water.

What should I wear in Punakha?

Light layers. Days are warm, often 20–30°C, while nights in winter cool to about 5°C. You will also cross Dochula at about 3,100 m, where it can be cold and windy, so carry a jacket. For the dzong, wear long sleeves and trousers or a long skirt.