Haa Valley

The quiet valley over Chele La

Haa is a narrow farming valley at about 2,700 m west of Paro, reached over the 3,988 m Chele La in about 2.5 hours. It opened to tourists only in 2002 and is still the least visited valley in western Bhutan. One night is ideal for the White and Black Temples, farmhouse food and walks.

Photo: Christopher J. Fynn · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Haa lies in a deep, narrow valley along the Haa Chhu, close to the borders with Tibet and Sikkim, at about 2,700 m. Blue pine and fir forest cover the slopes, and the valley floor is a patchwork of barley, wheat, buckwheat and potato fields with large farmhouses. Haa town is small, with a few shops, a school and a military training base.

The usual approach is from Paro over Chele La, at 3,988 m one of the highest motorable passes in Bhutan, with views of Jomolhari on clear days. The road descends through forest into the valley in about 2.5 hours in all. A second road follows the Haa Chhu down to Chuzom on the Thimphu highway.

Haa was opened to tourists in 2002 and still sees few of them. There are no grand dzongs to tick off, just two old temples, village walks, farmhouse food and quiet. It suits a night between Paro and Thimphu or a slow detour for travellers who have already seen the main sights.

Highlights

What Haa Valley does best

Chele LaThe pass at 3,988 m between Paro and Haa, covered in prayer flags, with Jomolhari and Jichu Drake visible on clear mornings.
Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang NagpoThe White Temple and the Black Temple, said to date from the 7th century, at the heart of the valley's legends.
Miri PunsumThree peaks above the valley, known as the three brothers and linked with three protective deities.
Hoentey dumplingsBuckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip greens and cheese, the valley's speciality.
Haa Summer FestivalA July festival of nomadic life, local food, sports and songs.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

adventure · 3 hours Chele La pass and the walk to Kila Nunnery Haa Valley, Bhutan

spiritual · 2 hours The White and Black Temples of Haa Haa Valley, Bhutan

village · Overnight A night in a Haa farmhouse Haa Valley, Bhutan

food · 2 hours Making hoentey, the buckwheat dumplings of Haa Haa Valley, Bhutan

Getting there

How to reach Haa Valley

Private car

From Paro over Chele La, about 65 km and 2.5 hours, with your guide in a Bhutan-registered car costing about ₹4,000–5,500 for the day. The pass can close for a day or two after winter snow.

Shared bus

A limited public bus links Haa with Thimphu and Paro, but tourists need a guide in Haa and almost all travel by car.

Air

The nearest airport is Paro, about 2.5 hours away over Chele La.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Most visitors stay in certified farmhouse homestays around the valley at about ₹2,500–4,000 per person with meals, which is the best way to see Haa. There are a few simple certified hotels in and near Haa town at ₹3,000–5,000 a room, and one or two higher-end lodges. Many visitors come on a day trip from Paro instead.

From our planners

Five things to know

Cross Chele La early in the morning; clouds usually close in on the mountain view by 10 am.
Check Chele La road status in December to February, when snow can block it briefly.
Carry warm layers; the pass is close to 4,000 m and windy even in summer.
Ask your farmhouse to cook hoentey; it takes time, so request it in advance.
Walk slowly at Chele La if you have come straight from the plains; the altitude is high.

The local story

The white pigeon and the black pigeon

In Haa people tell how the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo, in the 7th century, set out to build temples across the Himalaya to pin down a demoness whose body lay over the land. To choose a site in this valley, he released two pigeons, one white and one black.

Read the whole story →

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Haa Valley

How do I get to Haa from Paro?

By car over Chele La, about 65 km and 2.5 hours. The road climbs from the Paro valley through forest to the pass at 3,988 m, then descends into Haa. You need a route permit for Haa and a licensed guide. Leave early to see the mountains from the pass before clouds build.

Do I need a permit to visit Haa?

Yes. Haa is outside Thimphu and Paro, so tourists need a route permit, issued in Thimphu or online, and must travel with a licensed guide. Haa once needed a special permit because of its closeness to the border; the process has since been brought in line with other districts. Check current status before you travel.

Can I visit Haa as a day trip from Paro?

Yes. Leave Paro by 7 am, stop at Chele La, visit the White and Black Temples and have lunch in a farmhouse, then return by evening. It is a long day of about 5 hours' driving. A night in Haa is more relaxed and lets you continue to Thimphu via Chuzom the next day.

Is Chele La open all year?

Mostly yes, but heavy snow from December to February can close it for a day or two until the road is cleared. Monsoon landslides occasionally cause delays from June to September. Ask your guide the evening before. The alternative route into Haa via Chuzom is longer but lower.

What is the Haa Summer Festival?

A festival held in July that celebrates the valley's nomadic herding life, with local food such as hoentey, folk songs and dances, traditional sports and displays of yak-herding culture. It is small and local. Dates vary each year, so check current status before you travel.

What is hoentey?

Hoentey are dumplings made with buckwheat flour and filled with turnip greens, cheese and spices, then steamed or fried. They are the speciality of Haa and are made especially around Losar, the new year. Ask your farmhouse host a day ahead if you want to try them, as they take time to prepare.

How cold is Haa?

Haa is cool in summer at 15–22°C and cold in winter, when nights drop below freezing and the valley can see snow. Chele La is several degrees colder and windy at all times. Carry a warm jacket, cap and gloves outside the summer months, and a rain layer in the monsoon.

Is Haa worth visiting?

Yes, for travellers who want quiet, farm life and mountain views rather than big monuments. It has far fewer tourists than Paro or Punakha. If you have only five days in Bhutan, you may prefer to spend them on the main sights; with a week or more, Haa is a rewarding addition.

Where can I stay in Haa?

Certified farmhouse homestays across the valley are the most common choice, at about ₹2,500–4,000 per person with meals. There are a few simple hotels in Haa town and one or two higher-end lodges. All must be certified for tourists, and your operator will book one with your permit.