Making hoentey, the buckwheat dumplings of Haa
Buckwheat grows well in Haa's cold climate and was long the valley's staple grain. Hoentey are made from a buckwheat dough rolled thin and filled with dried turnip leaves, soft cheese, butter, chilli and spices, then folded and steamed or fried. They are a dish for Losar and special occasions.
In a farmhouse kitchen the host will show you how to mix the filling and pinch the dumplings closed. Eat them hot with ezay, a chilli paste, and a cup of butter tea. Ask a day ahead, as the filling takes time to prepare.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
What is in hoentey?
A buckwheat flour wrapper filled with dried turnip greens, soft local cheese, butter, chilli, onion and spices such as Sichuan pepper. They are steamed or pan-fried. The filling varies from house to house. Vegetarian versions are the norm, but some families add meat.
Where can I eat hoentey in Haa?
Mainly in farmhouse homestays, which make them on request, and at the Haa Summer Festival in July. A few local restaurants in Haa town serve them occasionally. Ask your guide to arrange it a day in advance, especially outside the festival season.
Is hoentey spicy?
Moderately. The filling has chilli, but it is milder than ema datshi, and the buckwheat wrapper softens the heat. The chilli paste served alongside is optional. Ask your host to go easy on the chilli if you prefer milder food.
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