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A Siliguri food evening of thalis, rolls and momos

Spend a transit evening eating your way along Hill Cart Road and around Bidhan Market: a Bengali fish thali, kathi rolls, phuchka and sweets, with Tibetan momos for balance.
A Siliguri food evening of thalis, rolls and momos
Photo: Itsbee · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Siliguri is a Bengali city with large Nepali, Marwari, Bihari and Tibetan communities, and the food shows it. Simple restaurants serve rice thalis with dal, bhaja, fish curry and chutney. Street stalls sell phuchka, crisp shells filled with spiced potato and tamarind water, and kathi rolls of egg or chicken wrapped in paratha.

Finish at a sweet shop with rosogolla, sandesh and mishti doi, sweet set yoghurt. Then walk through Hong Kong Market, famous for cheap imported goods, and Bidhan Market. Eat where locals queue, choose stalls that cook to order, and drink bottled or filtered water. Most stalls close by about 10 pm, so go out early.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Is street food in Siliguri safe to eat?

Most travellers eat Siliguri street food without trouble if they choose well. Pick busy stalls with fast turnover, food cooked hot in front of you and clean water. Phuchka water is the usual risk, so try it at a crowded stall or skip it on your first day. Carry oral rehydration salts in case your stomach objects before the hills.

What sweets should I try in Siliguri?

Try rosogolla, soft cheese balls in syrup, sandesh, a dry milk sweet that changes with the season, and mishti doi, sweet set yoghurt in a clay pot. In winter look for sweets made with nolen gur, date-palm jaggery. A few pieces cost ₹10–30 each in an ordinary sweet shop, so you can taste several.

Are there vegetarian options in Siliguri?

Plenty. Marwari and North Indian vegetarian restaurants are common along Hill Cart Road and Sevoke Road, serving thalis, dosas and chaat. Bengali thalis also come in vegetarian versions with dal, seasonal vegetables and fried snacks. Momos are widely available with vegetable or paneer fillings. Prices for a full vegetarian thali run about ₹150–250.

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