Weekend market and ema datshi trail in Thimphu
The Centenary Farmers Market sits beside the Wang Chhu below the city centre, in a two-storey building that fills from Friday to Sunday. Farmers from around the valley sell heaps of green and red chillies, rounds of soft cheese, dried yak cheese on strings, red rice, fern shoots, mushrooms in season and doma, betel nut wrapped in leaf.
Cross the traditional cantilever footbridge behind the market to the handicraft stalls on the far bank, then walk back into town for lunch. Order ema datshi, kewa datshi, red rice and a plate of momos, with suja, salted butter tea, to finish. A lunch for two costs about ₹600–900.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is the Thimphu weekend market open?
The Centenary Farmers Market is busiest from Friday to Sunday, from early morning until evening. Some stalls open on other days, but it is quiet. Go on Saturday or Sunday morning to see the most produce and the most activity. Some handicraft stalls across the river stay open through the week.
What can I buy at the Thimphu market?
Dried chillies, chilli powder, red rice, buckwheat flour, dried yak cheese and incense pack well. On the handicraft side there are prayer flags, wooden bowls, textiles and masks; check whether textiles are Bhutanese handwoven or imported. Bargaining is limited and polite, unlike many Indian markets.
Is Bhutanese food suitable for vegetarians?
Largely, yes. Ema datshi, kewa datshi and shamu datshi are vegetarian, as are red rice, dal, buckwheat dishes and vegetable momos. Meat dishes use dried beef or pork. Cheese and butter are common, so vegans should ask. Thimphu also has many Indian vegetarian restaurants.
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