Maha Shivaratri fair at Jalpesh
February or March, on Maha Shivaratri (14th night of the dark half of Phalgun)
The Jalpesh temple stands on the bank of the Jarda river, 7–8 km from Mainaguri town in Jalpaiguri district. The deity is Shiva as Jalpesh, worshipped as a lingam known as Anadi in the inner chamber. The temple was founded by the Koch ruler Bishwa Singha in 1524, rebuilt by King Pran Narayan of Cooch Behar in 1663 and restored again in 1899.
On Shivaratri devotees fast, queue through the night and pour water and milk over the lingam. A big fair, the Jalpesh mela, sets up in the fields around the temple, with stalls selling household goods, sweets, toys and farm tools. It draws Rajbanshi, Bengali, Adivasi and Nepali-speaking families from across the Dooars, and is one of the busiest days of the year in the area.
How to do it well
- Go early in the morning on the day after Shivaratri if you want to see the fair with smaller crowds
- Leave shoes at the paid stands and keep valuables in a front pocket
- Dress modestly and ask before photographing anyone at worship
- Combine with an afternoon safari at Gorumara
- Fair dates and arrangements vary year to year. Check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Where is the Jalpesh temple?
It is in Jalpaiguri district, 7–8 km from Mainaguri town on the bank of the Jarda river. From Lataguri it is about 25 km, roughly 45 minutes by car via Mainaguri. From Jalpaiguri town it is about 30 km. Autos and totos run from Mainaguri to the temple, and there are more on fair days.
When is the Jalpesh Shivaratri fair?
It is held on and around Maha Shivaratri, which falls in February or early March depending on the Hindu lunar calendar. The busiest time is the night of Shivaratri and the following morning. The fair usually runs for several days after that. Check the exact date in the year you plan to go.
Can non-Hindus visit the Jalpesh temple?
Visitors of other faiths usually enter the temple compound respectfully, but rules at the inner sanctum are set by the temple committee and can change on festival days. Dress modestly, remove shoes, follow the queue and do not photograph inside unless allowed. Ask a priest or volunteer if you are unsure.
Is the Jalpesh fair crowded?
Very. It is one of the biggest gatherings of the year in the western Dooars, with long queues at the temple and heavy traffic on the Mainaguri road. Go early, park outside the fair area and walk in. Families with small children may prefer a quiet weekday visit to the temple instead.