Sikkim, Darjeeling, Kalimpong, the Dooars and Bhutan · a planner replies within one working day

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Haat bazaar, cheese and lollipop trail

Walk the old bazaar and the twice-weekly haat, then hunt down Kalimpong cheese, milk lollipops, momos and thukpa.
Haat bazaar, cheese and lollipop trail
Photo: Unknown author · CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

Kalimpong's haat is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when villagers come in with vegetables, oranges in season, ginger, cardamom, churpi, chillies and bamboo baskets. It is crowded and noisy and very local. Go in the morning, carry small notes and keep your bag in front of you.

The town is known for its cheese, first made by a Jesuit parish priest, Father André Butty, and still produced in small amounts: mild, slightly tangy and crumbly when young. Shops in the bazaar sell it in small pieces. Kalimpong is also known for milk lollipops and for noodles. End with momos or thukpa at one of the small eateries near the motor stand.

Cheese sweats in heat, so buy it on your last day and keep it wrapped and cool.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Where can I buy Kalimpong cheese?

Small grocery and dairy shops in the main bazaar sell it, usually cut from larger wheels. Supply is limited and not every shop has it every day, so ask around. A small piece costs roughly ₹150–300, indicative. Buy it near the end of your stay and keep it cool and wrapped for the journey.

What does Kalimpong cheese taste like?

When young it is white, mild and slightly acidic, a little crumbly in the middle with a smooth rind, rather like a farmhouse Caerphilly. As it ages it gets stronger and firmer. Locals eat it on toast or with crackers. It was first made in Kalimpong by Father André Butty, a Jesuit priest.

Is the Kalimpong haat good for tourists?

Yes, if you like local markets. It is a working market rather than a souvenir bazaar, so most stalls sell food and household goods. You will see churpi, spices, seasonal fruit and village produce. Go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, carry cash in small notes, and ask before photographing stallholders.

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